Synthetic
Diamonds - Save Money & Avoid
Diamond Scams
By Robert Joseph
High quality synthetic diamonds are a bargain
at about $80 per carat, and they do not increase
in price exponentially as carat weight increases.
For example, a one-carat synthetic diamond costs
about $80; a three-carat synthetic diamond would
then sell for $240. On the other hand, a one-carat
mined diamond that sells for $3000 would go
for $45,000 in a three-carat size, all things
being equal, which with mined diamonds is never
the case.
Perplexing comparative evaluations, exponential
price growth, consumer confusion, and the reality
of diamond industry antics is why the mined
diamond business is awash in dirty tricks. Here
are descriptions of the most sneaky and pervasive
mined diamond scams:
THE BLUE-WHITE SCAM:
A jeweler tells you, "This is a blue-white
diamond." This is a very old term. The
dealer will probably tell you that it is a better
diamond, but actually it is just the opposite.
Blue-white refers to the fluorescence that results
in natural light, which contains ultraviolet
wavelengths. This blue fluorescence actually
makes a colorless diamond look a little oily
or milky in sunlight and decreases its value.
THE LIGHT MAKES WHITE SCAM:
Bright lights make every mined diamond look
better. Of course, every jeweler wants to show
his or her diamonds in the best light, but there
are some lighting tricks you should avoid. Some
bulbs have a strong blue component, which makes
yellow stones look whiter. Special bulbs are
often used with strong ultraviolet wavelengths,
which make most diamonds fluoresce blue. This
also has a whitening effect for stones in the
lower color ranges.
THE GRADE BUMPING SCAM:
A jeweler exaggerates the grade. Legally, a
jeweler must be accurate within one grade of
color and one grade of clarity on a diamond.
So many jewelers bump the color and clarity
just one grade. Unfortunately, this can mean
a great deal of money if you are talking about
a fine-quality, 1-carat diamond. For instance,
you might find a stone that the jeweler quotes
as a 1.00 carat F color / VS1 clarity for $6,500.
However, if you sent it to a reputable gem lab,
it may come back as a G color / VS2 clarity,
which is only worth about $5,500. This means
you lose (and they profit) about $1,000.
THE FRACTION SCAM:
The tag says 3/4 carat, and jewelers are allowed
to round off diamond weights. So a diamond labeled
as 3/4 carat in weight might actually weigh
anywhere between .69 and .81 carat. This could
mean a significant amount of money, since diamond
prices leap at certain popular sizes. In this
example, you might be buying a .69 carat round
G/VS2 worth about $2,100... but paying for what
you thought was a 0.75 carat worth $3,000. You
lose $900.
THE LASER DRILLING SCAM:
Dealers drill holes to burn out black carbon
spots. About 1 in 3 diamonds in the United States
is laser drilled. Dealers use lasers to drill
a tiny hole into the depths of a diamond to
burn and evaporate large black inclusions to
make them disappear. The trouble with this little
trick is that laser drilling can make the diamond
a little more fragile to breaking with a good
knock. Most dealers trade laser-drilled stones
for much less.
THE HIDING THE FLAWS SCAM:
Every jeweler hides flaws under the prongs
if he can. In many cases, this can make an I1
clarity appear like a VS2 if you look at it
in a ring setting. Structural flaws like feathers
and cleavages can be damaged by the high pressure
exerted by the prong on the diamond to hold
it snug in the ring.
THE FRACTURE FILLING SCAM:
These are new treatments to make flaws invisible.
A new process patented a few years ago melts
a kind of crystal into surface-breaking fractures
in a diamond. This technique will slide by consumers
unnoticed. The treatment is considered slightly
fragile because it can be damaging under the
extreme heat of a torch when the diamond is
set into a ring. Fracture-filled diamonds should
trade for much less than diamonds without this
treatment, but in reality they often sell for
as much or more because they look like a higher,
more expensive clarity grade.
THE CHEMICAL COLOR COATINGS SCAM:
A little paint goes a long way. This very deceptive
practice involves a little point of blue or
purple paint on the lowest tip of the diamond,
called the culet. This is small enough that
you might not detect it, but the location spreads
the color throughout the stone. This counters
the yellow tint in lower color grades, making
a diamond look like a more expensive, colorless
grade.
SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS
Man made diamonds or synthetic diamonds are
manufactured in a laboratory under controlled
conditions. If anything about synthetic diamonds
is called into question it is that they are
too perfect. And since all mined diamonds have
inclusions, flaws, and birthmarks, under magnification
a trained jeweler can tell the difference. Considering
that man made diamonds cannot be distinguished
with the naked eye, lab-created diamonds have
aesthetic beauty matching-often besting-mined
diamonds, and huge savings are realized, jewelry
lovers must regard synthetic diamonds as an
intelligent option. Plus, there is no insurance
to buy after purchasing man made diamond jewelry
and the thousands of dollars in savings can
be banked!
Robert Joseph is an expert
jeweler and founding partner of Diamond Nexus
Labs, a renowned online jewelry store that specializes
in pristine affordable diamond simulants set
in Solid 14K Gold. http://diamondnexuslabs.com/