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House & Home
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Easy-to-make
Window Valences for the
"I Don't Sew" Seamstress
By
Susan Wells
Susan Wells is a best-selling author and
the host of the television program "Dream
Homes". Through her Award Winning T.V.
Series, videos and best selling books, she
has enabled thousands of non-sewers across
North America to transform their homes into
instant showcases. The following three window
treatments are excerpts from her book, Encylopedia
of Window Fashions, which provides easy instructions
on how to make the newest exciting window
coverings seen in show homes.
Toppers
Dozens
of stunning looks can be created by simply gathering a fabric
sleeve onto a rod. The versatility allows these valances
to complete the decorating scheme of your room no matter
what style you are using - from contemporary to Victorian.
By using
various rod combinations, toppers can form a subtle backdrop
for other furnishings or make a dramatic statement on their
own. Any humdrum window can be transformed. Toppers will
also soften the harsh, straight-edged look of Venetians,
verticals and other hard window coverings. They are perfect
for situations where only a narrow treatment can be used,
and yet the range in depth can extend from 3" to 14".
Very
little fabric is required, so toppers are great money savers.
Your main investment will be in the rod (s). Ease in construction
makes them a great beginner's project. If you are planning
to move or change your decorating scheme in the future,
they can comfortably adapt to different window sizes and
decorating styles. Put these ideas to work and soon you'll
be creating your own special look!
Single
Rod with Ruffles
Cut
width: 3 x fullness
Cut length:
2 ½ " rod with 1 ½" ruffles: 13
½"
2 ½" rod with 2" ruffles: 15 ½"
4 ½ " rod with 1 ½" ruffles; 17
½"
4 ½" rod with 2" ruffles: 19 ½"
Construction:
Cut
and join panels. Sew side hems.
Stretch
out fabric. Form sleeve by joining raw edge, right sides
together. Pin every 10".
Fanfold
fabric and stitch.
Turn
sleeve right side out.
Lay
sleeve flat with seam laying bout 1" from top edge.
Pin into padded surface.
If
your seam is located near the top edge, you should be
able to use your eye as your guide to keep the seam straight
as you are pressing. If the seam lays too far from the
edge, your accuracy is going to suffer.
Press
sleeve in half. Fold in half, bottom over top. T-pin and
press. Lay sleeve open.
If
sewing a 5 ¼" pocket, lay ruler on sleeve
with a 2 ½" mark on the crease. Mark fabric
slightly above the 0" and slightly below the 5"
markings (about 1/8"). For a 3 ¼" pocket,
lay ruler on sleeve with a 1½" mark on the
crease. Mark fabric slightly above the 0" and slightly
below the 3" markings (about 1/8"). Continue
measuring at 20" intervals and also at seams where
any panels were joined.
Lay
yardstick across markings and join them with a straight
line.
Pin along stitching lines about every 15" with an
extra pin 1" in from each end edge.
Fanfold
sleeve and stitch.
Jabots
Jabots
are tapered cascades that form graceful side panels alongside
swags or some swag style treatments. Tailored jabots are
pleated into soft, tapered folds. They draw attention to
detail and add a touch of sophistication to a more formal
setting. Gathered styles taper gracefully alongside swags
and are less structured, which allows them to add elegance
with less formality.
Tailored
Jabots
Folded
or formal jabots are lined with the same fabric or are contrast
lined, since the underside will show once the zigzag style
folds are formed. Sheer fabric is self-lined.
Finished
Length:
Short
Point: Most often parallel with deepest point of the swag.
May be lower if desired.
Long Point: May fall at a point of architectural interest
on your window, at a windowsill, or 1/3 the length of an
under drapery.
The
following instructions will give you a jabot that will
be about 10" wide across the front with a 4"
return at the sides. Since you can always alter your pleats
slightly, you will still have some room for play.
Cut
Width: 34"
Cut Length: Shortest point + 1 ½". Longest
point + 1 ½".
Lay decorator fabric on top of lining so both can be measured
and cut at the same time.
Mark
dimensions of jabot: Cut width, longest point, and shortest
point. Join markings. Cut along lines. When cutting the
second jabot, make sure markings are reversed so you end
up with a left and right jabot. If jabots are self-lined
(e.g. sheer fabric), the cut width will be 34" x
2 = 68".
Fold
fabric back, lying raw edges together.
Stitch
along sides using ½" seam allowance. Clip
corners and turn right side out. Press seams flat.
Mark
along top edge. Measure in for return and then pleats.
Fold
over fabric at markings and pin. Measure to ensure you
have achieved your desired width. Make any necessary adjustments
and pin in place. Use padded surface for pinning.
Fold
fabric at bottom of jabot so pleats are lined up eveningly.
Pin and press folds into place.
Finish
top edge for board mounts or Velcro mounts.
Gathered
Jabots
Finished
Length:
Short Point: Most often parallel with deepest point of the
swag. May be lower if desired.
Long Point: May fall at a point of architectural interest
on your window, at a windowsill, or 1/3 the length of an
under drapery.
Cut
Width: 3 x fullness
Cut
Length: finished length plus amount for heading and bottom,
seam allowance.
Construction:
Lay
decorator fabric on top of lining so both can be measured
and cut at the same time.
Mark
dimensions of jabot: cut width, longest point, and shortest
point. Join markings. Cut along lines. When cutting second
jabot, make sure markings are reversed so you end up with
a left and right jabot. If jabots are self-lined (e.g.
Sheer fabric), the cut width will be 34" x 2 = 68".
Fold
fabric back, lying raw edges together.
Stitch
along sides using ½" seam allowance. Clip
corners and turn right side out. Press seams flat.
Measure
in and press to edge for rod pocket. Stitch. Gather onto
pocket rod.
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Tab
Style Draperies
This
popular drape is extremely functional, allowing
you to easily open and close at will. A shorter
tab valance provides a striking look as well. Consider
incorporating contrasting fabric into the tabs.
Fabric
Requirements:
Drape:
Width: Width of drapery by 1½ x fullness
Length: Length + 8" for hem + ½"
for top seam allowance
Facing
Strip: Width of drapery panel by 3" deep
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Tabs:
Widths of tabs: Tabs can vary in width depending on personal
taste, eg. 2" - 3" width.
Length
of tabs:
To determine tab length: Measurement around rod + length
below rod + 1" for seam allowance.
Number
of tabs:
Determine by laying a tab at each edge and space tabs 6"
to 8" apart, (will be 2 1/2" to 3" apart
when gathered on rod).
Construction:
Drape:
If necessary, stitch fabric widths together to form drapery
panel(s).
Side
Hems: Turn under 11/2" hems along length. Press.
Stitch.
Bottom Hem: Turn under 4" to wrong sides of fabric.
Press. Turn under 4" again. Press. Stitch.
Tabs:
With right sides together, fold tab in half lengthways.
Stitch 1/2" from edge. Repeat for other tabs.
Turn
tabs right side. Centre seam on tabs. Press flat.
Facing
Strip:
1) At each end of strip, press under 1/2" of fabric
to wrong side. Lay facing strip across top of drape to
ensure it is the same width as the drapery panel.
2) Along one length of facing, press a double 1/2"
hem. Stitch.
Attach
facing and tabs to drape:
Fold
tabs in half. Along top edge of curtain, pin tabs to right
side of fabric, lining up raw edges.
With
right sides together, pin facing along top edges of curtain,
lining up raw edges. Stitch 1/2" from edge.
Press
facing to wrong side. (Tabs are now exposed above drape).
Stitch facing to drape along sides.
Insert
rod through tabs. Lay drape against wall to confirm height
of brackets. Install brackets. Mount rod onto brackets.
Susan
Wells is the best selling author of two decorating
books, and host of the award-winning T.V. series
"Dreamhomes". Her books are available
on her website: www.thedecoratingcoach.com
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